Monday 29 November 2010
Friday 26 November 2010
Sunday 21 November 2010
PILGRIMAGE
"Jai Mataji, Jai Mataji" - his face was lined with sweat as he toiled up the steep slope towards the Temple of Savritri, his thin legs exposed, as his dhoti was looped up, a stout stick in his right hand, his loosely folded turban partly shading his face. A group of women went by, "Jai Mataji", they said as they passed. A group of old men sat in the shade of a scrub bush, the oldest wore a large white turban and incongruously, his spectacles were perched on top. He read aloud, out of a book filled with decorative writing in Sanskrit, the other men listened in rapt attention, as he accentuated a point by raising a finger in their direction. A group of children, in bright clothes, the sequins catching the light, as they darted past, shouted "Jai Mataji", with a smile. A group of older women had stopped for a rest, easing themselves down onto the rocks, "Jai Mataji", they said with quiet resolution, as a family group passed, carrying their youngest children on their shoulders. Those coming down vied for a place on the narrow path, with those going up, "Jai Mataji".
The way was rough and the slope got progressively steeper and narrower, as the well cut steps eventually gave way to roughly hewn rocks - high above was the Temple, precariously perched on an outcrop of rock overlooking the huge territory of Pushkar far below. The Temple appeared and disappeared from view, the higher one climbed up the vertical ascent.
Shoes were discarded outside, a small entrance led to the shrine, with an image of the Goddess. It was dark and her small face, with large penetrating eyes, looked out in an unblinking stare, as pilgrims prostrated themselves before her and others waited to take their place. Outside, a slight breeze cooled hot faces, as they contemplated the steep terrain below.
'Jai Mataji' - Victory to the Mother Goddess........but the journey was the thing !
The way was rough and the slope got progressively steeper and narrower, as the well cut steps eventually gave way to roughly hewn rocks - high above was the Temple, precariously perched on an outcrop of rock overlooking the huge territory of Pushkar far below. The Temple appeared and disappeared from view, the higher one climbed up the vertical ascent.
Shoes were discarded outside, a small entrance led to the shrine, with an image of the Goddess. It was dark and her small face, with large penetrating eyes, looked out in an unblinking stare, as pilgrims prostrated themselves before her and others waited to take their place. Outside, a slight breeze cooled hot faces, as they contemplated the steep terrain below.
'Jai Mataji' - Victory to the Mother Goddess........but the journey was the thing !
Saturday 20 November 2010
Sunday 14 November 2010
DETAILS
"I'll send my car for you" she said. At 7.30 p..m. on the dot, the large air conditioned, white, 4 x 4 arrived to pick me up for the gala event. These vehicles are larger, faster and higher than anything else on the road and so one is instantly transported into the world of the 'haves'.
The occasion was a house warming party to inaugurate their new home, some way out of the town. With urban growth and sprawl taking place, this smart, luxurious new housing estate, catering for the tastes of the CEOs of foreign companies and wealthy local business owners, was set some distance from the heart of the city but within a year, the rest of the town will have caught up to it. This is one of the fastest growing cities in India.
Along the way we passed the usual ambling cows, dogs running on three legs, most of them maimed or injured in some way, crowds of people living on the street, eking out a living, their lives in all their entirety spent in the same spot, surviving. They looked with curiosity at the darkened windows of our car, as we swept by.
The Estate was lit up, chairs were set out in the open area, draped in gathered fabric with elegant bows tied behind, the band was striking up, the caterers were getting ready with their stands, white gloved waiters held silver trays. White lilies, decorated every surface, making elegant displays on every table.
We swept on to the house itself - it glowed with lights, the hostess came down the wide staircase, later, dressed in a hand embroidered, red, sari. She was Financial Director of the Company, her husband its CEO - their company supplying machinery to countries world-wide. The house was built on three floors with a glass lift. Every room had been designed by an Interior Decorator with a particular theme. Paintings decorated the walls, along with memorabilia from countries around the world - elaborate masks from Venice, trophy heads from Africa..... The top floor provided an enormous den for the teenage son, just back from a trip to the U.S. and workshop at NASA. Apart from the latest in electric guitars, drums and acoustic equipment, the den was equipped with a sunken bath, filled with rose petals, a jacuzzi, huge overhead shower and flat screen tv at the side.
The bar on the same floor, was straight out of the West End of London, rows of bottles gleamed from the glass shelves and above, a skylight in the ceiling, magnified the sickle moon - a door opened onto a terrace, overlooking the countryside.
These are the new palaces of India - they have replaced those of the Moghuls, just as this is the developing Ruling Class. When asked how she had made it to the top, she said...'good luck, being in the right place at the right time and maintaining the good fortune with hard work'
The occasion was a house warming party to inaugurate their new home, some way out of the town. With urban growth and sprawl taking place, this smart, luxurious new housing estate, catering for the tastes of the CEOs of foreign companies and wealthy local business owners, was set some distance from the heart of the city but within a year, the rest of the town will have caught up to it. This is one of the fastest growing cities in India.
Along the way we passed the usual ambling cows, dogs running on three legs, most of them maimed or injured in some way, crowds of people living on the street, eking out a living, their lives in all their entirety spent in the same spot, surviving. They looked with curiosity at the darkened windows of our car, as we swept by.
The Estate was lit up, chairs were set out in the open area, draped in gathered fabric with elegant bows tied behind, the band was striking up, the caterers were getting ready with their stands, white gloved waiters held silver trays. White lilies, decorated every surface, making elegant displays on every table.
We swept on to the house itself - it glowed with lights, the hostess came down the wide staircase, later, dressed in a hand embroidered, red, sari. She was Financial Director of the Company, her husband its CEO - their company supplying machinery to countries world-wide. The house was built on three floors with a glass lift. Every room had been designed by an Interior Decorator with a particular theme. Paintings decorated the walls, along with memorabilia from countries around the world - elaborate masks from Venice, trophy heads from Africa..... The top floor provided an enormous den for the teenage son, just back from a trip to the U.S. and workshop at NASA. Apart from the latest in electric guitars, drums and acoustic equipment, the den was equipped with a sunken bath, filled with rose petals, a jacuzzi, huge overhead shower and flat screen tv at the side.
The bar on the same floor, was straight out of the West End of London, rows of bottles gleamed from the glass shelves and above, a skylight in the ceiling, magnified the sickle moon - a door opened onto a terrace, overlooking the countryside.
These are the new palaces of India - they have replaced those of the Moghuls, just as this is the developing Ruling Class. When asked how she had made it to the top, she said...'good luck, being in the right place at the right time and maintaining the good fortune with hard work'
Friday 5 November 2010
ARABIAN NIGHTS
Cascades of coloured stars lit the night sky in a constant display. It is Diwali, a five day festival marking the start of the Hindu New Year, according to the Lunar Calendar. The rockets having streaked upwards, would pause momentarily, before the bang and mushroom shaped cloud of twinkling multi-coloured lights would illuminate the sky. Some rockets zigzagged even higher than others, bursting into a canopy of lights. There seemed a never ending supply and by morning, there were still muffled bangs. The street littered with spent cartridges, the only evidence left behind. Diwali, literally means 'row of lights' and celebrates the triumph of light over darkness, good over evil.
Lakshmi, Goddess of Wealth, is the main focus of these celebrations and this is when Indians buy gold, so Jewelry Shops remain open. CH, World of Jewels, is lit from top to bottom - it has the appearance of a kind of cathedral - three stories with doormen dressed in turbans. Gold dealing is on the ground floor and this is the main area of interest amongst the customers and where most of the business gets done.
The other floors have collections of traditional jewelry, much of it coming from Rajasthan, like Thewa Jewelry, 23ct gold is fused onto coloured glass, the shapes are always geometric and blue, red and green glass is used to suggest sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Peacocks are a favourite motif !
Lakshmi, Goddess of Wealth, is the main focus of these celebrations and this is when Indians buy gold, so Jewelry Shops remain open. CH, World of Jewels, is lit from top to bottom - it has the appearance of a kind of cathedral - three stories with doormen dressed in turbans. Gold dealing is on the ground floor and this is the main area of interest amongst the customers and where most of the business gets done.
The other floors have collections of traditional jewelry, much of it coming from Rajasthan, like Thewa Jewelry, 23ct gold is fused onto coloured glass, the shapes are always geometric and blue, red and green glass is used to suggest sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Peacocks are a favourite motif !
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