KACHHI GHODI

He was 'clip-clopping' down the highway, near Jambughoda - on his way to a wedding at a nearby village.  He was dressed up for the kachhi ghodi dance which he would perform with others, to entertain the bridegroom and his supporters with tales of male prowess and bravado.   The dance involves a high spirited re-enactment of mock battles with the brandishing of swords,  to the beat of drums,  as the narrator tells the story of bandits and their audacious exploits !   The first challenge, it seemed, was to walk the many miles, in costume, to the venue !

THE LOTUS TEMPLE

It reminded me a little of the Sydney Opera House - an extraordinary structure just outside Delhi.  Traveling by taxi along crowded streets and beeping traffic, when you finally arrive, it comes as a surprise, looking rather like a spacecraft, set in a huge open terraced field.  It's one of the most visited tourist attractions in India.

The removal of shoes is obligatory, after which there is a long approach on a concrete path to the circular, domed, temple, with its 27 free standing marble clad petals, arranged in clusters of 3.   Entry is by one of the 9 entrances, one on each of its sides and the 9 pools, capture reflections and aspects of the temple.

It was designed by an Iranian architect in 1986, Fariborz Sahba, whose plan was in accordance with the  requirements of the Bahai faith, which originated in Iran.  It is non-denominational, in keeping with the concept that God is omnipresent and omniscient, to everyone, no matter what your faith and people are encouraged to say their own prayers, in their own language.

The sense of space inside is enhanced by the lack of pillars under the huge dome - it can accommodate 2500 people.   Although the structure is concrete, it's clad in white marble from the Pentali mountain in Greece.  In accordance with the Bahai faith, there are no adornments, no paintings and no sculptures.  Sermons and music are not allowed.  Nothing interferes with the pervading sense of peace.

The Bahai Faith, emanated from Iran in the 19th century and under the leadership of the Founder's son, Abdul Baha, became recognised by the rest of the world.  Although they were an aristocratic family, they were persecuted for their beliefs and were exiled, landing up eventually in Acre in Palestine, where they were imprisoned under harsh conditions.  But after his release, early in the 20th century, Abdul Baha traveled to the United States in 1912 (turning down the opportunity to travel on the ill fated Titanic and opting for a slower boat).  He gave numerous talks and lectures promoting world peace and also traveled to the U.K. and Europe, before returning to Palestine.

THE SUN AND THE MOON

THE UMBRELLA

The umbrella, synonymous with royalty in India, seen in many paintings and miniature illustrations of royal processions, still carries this special significance.   

Arriving at the imposing gates of a prestigious 7* hotel in Rajasthan, we were taken by golf cart, the hundred meters or so, to the forecourt of the hotel, where we were greeted by the liveried, doorman, who held a large, red and tasseled umbrella over our heads and escorted us to the entrance.   The umbrella, was an important part of the ritualised welcome !

However, it's an object not commonly used on the streets, despite the intolerable heat and the torrential downpours of rain.  When the first monsoon rains appear, people opt to enjoy being wet
 - a novelty after  months of searing heat and dusty dryness.

With this in mind, the drawing of the 'Reclining woman with Umbrella' at the Delhi Art Show, made me wonder about the purpose of the umbrella, apart from its decorative repetition of curves.  The drawing reminded me of Picasso's classical style, early in the 20th century  !

COVERAGE

Local glossy, society and gossip magazines often feature the Royal Families of various states wearing their best regalia - posed against a backdrop of the family palace, or seated formally on gilded chairs, in a luxurious setting.  The women are beautifully dressed in saris, bedecked with jewels, while the men stand behind them, also dressed in traditional clothing, looking gravely out at the viewer.  One wonders about their privileged life which continues to ensure their status in society.

An artist at a recent Art Show, took the concept of the group portrait and gave it an interesting twist. Choosing an old photograph, yellowed with time, showing a family group gathered for a formal portrait, probably commemorating a special occasion, he blocked out the faces, robbing them of their identity - with this removed, they became as anonymous as dummies !

In his explanation of the work, the artist, put forward the idea that the sheer quantity of personal photographs on public networking sites, separated from background and iconography, often simply recording the individual at a particular time of day, robs them of relevance.  The images cease to have meaning - exposure to public viewing removes any significance, which they might have had, they become as insignificant, as the old photograph !

ZEN BATHROOM

The new boutique hotel had just won an award for its decor and ambience.  The layout was almost monastic in its simplicity.  Carefully chosen original paintings blended in with the decor.  Brightly coloured walls were offset by bamboo screens, balconies opened out to reveal a carefully placed statue. And as if this wasn't enough to guarantee your well-being, there was the zen open-air bathroom.  The large copper basin under the shower, was once a cooking vessel !  These antiques are now collectors' items and much sought after.

                                     

VASCO DA GAMA

Calicut, on the Malibar Coast of Kerala, was known as the 'City of Spices', being on the main spice trade route.  But also the place where the Portuguese explorer, Vasco da Gama, who discovered the sea route between Europe and India, came ashore in 1498.  Kerala, with all its lush vegetation and abundance of cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, ginger and pepper, must have been an explorer's dream come true and spice farms still define this southern part of India.

The colonialism which this voyage of discovery brought to India, can also be found in the abundance of Syrian Churches which dot the towns and countryside.  The architecture is so different from anything in Europe - colour being one of the defining aspects of it.  Facades and steeples are fanciful, windows are outlined in bright primary colours and outside walls are whitewashed.

The Church of St Francis (1503) in Kochi, is one of the oldest churches in India, and has the further distinction of being the burial site of Vasco da Gama, who died in Kochi in 1524, on his third visit to India.  He was laid to rest in the church itself.

CAVE TEMPLES

It's such an extraordinary story....a British Cavalry Officer, by the name of John Smith, out hunting tigers in 1819, happened to find, while cutting a path through the jungle, a number of ancient and overgrown cave temples, dating from the 2nd century BCE.  These temples, cut into the rock, in the wilds of Maharashtra, became known as the Ajanta Caves!  Referred to now as the 'Louvre of India', it provides endless opportunity for academic research.   Decorated with wall paintings and sculptures, the huge scale of the structures and the intricate details, are awe-inspiring !  Though the wall paintings are fading fast, despite the efforts of Japanese and Indian conservationists to allay the process, they are still vibrant with descriptive energy.

Similarly, the Ellora Caves, a bus ride away, en route to Aurangabad, are equally impressive.  The collection of 34 caves: 12 Buddhist, 17 Hindu and 5 Jain, alongside each other, dating from 5th - 10th century, show an enviable level of religious tolerance.

Entering Cave No. 10, a Buddhist caitya - a prayer hall, containing a 15' statue of Lord Buddha, teaching under a Bodhi Tree, in front of a stupa, it was the architecture itself which amazed - pillared colonnades, with huge capitals, divided the space into a main hall and aisles.  But the most astonishing part of the interior was the roof - the rock had been deeply cut, to create the effect of arched wooden beams, in the manner of a roof made out of wood, instead of stone !