CHAAT

The most popular roadside snack is 'chaat', a word meaning delicious !  There are many different varieties but it is based around rice crispy or crisp potato pieces with a topping of freshly chopped onion, tomato, spices, a variety of chutneys and a sprinkling of coriander.  This kind of eating on the run is very popular because it's tasty, cheap and quick !  It's so popular that you can even order it in the cinema and they'll bring you a plate of it at interval, to keep you going during the second half.....!

Chaat is sold in other parts of the world where there is a substantial Indian population, but according to one Indian friend who had returned after some years in the U.S.,  because conditions are so hygienic, it spoils the flavour - you have to have the heat, dust and dodgy water of India, for chaat to taste really good !

THE INDIAN BICYCLE

THE PALACE !

Coming round the bend in the pitch darkness,  suddenly in front of us, like something out of a fairytale, the Palace was ablaze with lights, its compact form illuminated from the topmost spire down to the ground !  Dating from the mid-nineteenth century, the palace is an Indo Saracenic extravaganza, set in 700 acres of park land, built by Major Charles Mant, a Scottish Engineer !  Still home to the Gaekwad family and the current Maharaja, it was part of an expansive building programme which shaped much of Baroda City, a hundred-and-fifty years ago.

The concert was to be staged in the grand Darbar Hall of Lukshmi Villas Palace - featuring 15 clarinetists mostly from Leon, in France, 'L'Ensemble de Clarinettes de Vouiron', celebrating a fusion of Western and Eastern music.  The red carpet was out and shoes were to be removed.  The Hall, with its Belgian stain glass panels, was lit by huge crystal chandeliers and the intricate Italian mosaic floor was covered by a vast, soft, white duvet.  Gold lozenger shaped bolsters were dotted around for guests to lean against through the 2 hour programme !  And wide doors opened onto an Italianate courtyard, with fountains creating spurts and cascades of water, the cool air drifting into the hall beyond and the background splash, setting the mood for the evening.

But far from being a fusion of sounds, it seemed more like an occasional 'infusion', as the tempo and intricacies of the clarinet, bear little relation to the haunting sound of the Indian bamboo flute and the tabla and dholak, create a distinctive and urgent rhythm, which is essentially Indian.

This was an occasion for the high society of the town - they were all present, exquisitely dressed in saris and the men in kurtis, whilst the Western expat community was represented in their full complement, of about 30 people, mostly employed on contract, by foreign European companies.

RAMPHAL OR SITA PHAL (CUSTARD APPLES)

These eye-catching fruit come onto the streets in winter - such an odd shape and unusual flavour, they're like nothing else.  Originating in the West Indies, Bermuda, Florida and Mexico,  they are now grown in North East India in the Calcutta region.

Sometimes called 'Sweet Apple', or perhaps more appropriately because of the shape, 'Bullock's Heart',  (as they are known in Mediterranean countries), they are packed with Vitamins and free radicals and considered a cure-all for a number of ailments.  However, you need a practiced eye when buying them, otherwise it's a costly mistake !  The flavour is like a grainy form of custard.  They sell for about 120 rupees per kilo and for the same money, you could buy yourself an entire thali lunch with roti, subji, rice and a desert !

They need to be soft and ripe, otherwise they are inedible.  They can be eaten with a little spoon to  scoop out the custard interior, or they can be mashed through muslin to make a delicious flavouring for milkshakes or ice cream !

THE CROSSROADS

Gujarat prides itself on having some of the best roads in the country, an important asset in India's rapid urbanisation.  So when the new flyover, linking the new town with the old town was complete, a brand new traffic circle was constructed to mark the junction between old and new.  It also links the very affluent part of the commercial district with the suburbs.

The temple structure, its figure within and the frieze of elephants round the base of the plinth, was under wraps for months, tantalisingly obscured from view.  And then one day without much ceremony the coverings were removed.  The beautiful white rotunda and dome of the little temple provide a tranquil space for the Holy Man within, who sits calmly contemplative, against his cushion, in the midst of the mayhem of  this busy junction of traffic !

  

THE SMALLEST GARAGE IN THE WORLD ?

Scooters, bikes and even the odd car, drive up to this minute garage-in-a-box, to have their mechanical problems dealt with !  The garage owner sits appropriately on a tyre in front of the 'shop' - its doors opened wide for business.  At night, the cosy interior is lit by a naked electric light bulb and clients crouch down for hasty consultations, tyres are mended, right there and then, or pumped up or changed in this little roadside hub of entrepreneurship !

THE COW CIRCLE

Traffic Circles in Vadodara haven't any real theme and appear to be quite varied - some purely secular, funded by a private individual, whilst others are more religious or political in content.

The Cow Circle is an important landmark - its gleaming whiteness, the typical Indian cow with its hump and long ears and little calf are a reference point in Productivity Road.  The axis of this busy commercial thoroughfare starts and finishes with a circular temple at each end, the Cow Circle, halfway down, marks an important transverse junction with another major road.

Real cows are a fact of life in India as they wander through the town - they seem to be quite aware of traffic and have as much sensitivity to its randomness as any savvy rickshaw driver.  Their sheer bulk, size and number though,  ensure that they have right of way at all times.  But of course the cow is sacred in Hindu culture and they are respected and venerated by all.  Given the choice, a car driver would rather knock down a person than a cow, if put to the test.

Their ambling gait and placid temperament in the midst of the frenetic traffic, does indeed seem to have certain divine qualities and everyone is familiar with the story of Lord Krishna, who was a cow herder and Nandi the Bull, Shiva's avatar.  Further they provide milk which yields butter and supplies ghee, used in all sacred rituals and sacrifices.

With its gleaming whiteness, the Cow Circle sculpture, though essentially Indian, makes one think fleetingly of Della Robbia in Italy !

THE BIRD OF PARADISE BUSH

Found in hot dry climates like Arizona in the U.S., parts of South America, South Africa and Mauritius, this hardy shrub is not as common as you'd think.  When I first saw it in India, it was like finding an old children's book, that you thought had gone out of print !  It brought back old fashioned memories of summer, as it radiated colour - so aptly named, the flowers seem to fly around the bush with their long trailing filaments and frilly edges, outlined in gold.

THE TAILOR

A good tailor is worth his weight in gold, but the challenge is to keep him up to scratch and on your side, so that he is willing to keep taking your orders !

Shopping complexes are full of tiny tailors' shops, with a variety of promising names:  'The Ladies Tailor', 'Perfect Tailors', 'Golden Scissors', etc.  Recommendations from people you know, are not always a guarantee of success - what's good for the goose is not always good for the gander.

Typically you will wait in a queue for your turn to present your fabric, while others before you have long and detailed conversations about their own garment.  Eventually it's your turn and the measuring begins.  The tailor is barefoot and a tape measure hangs around his neck.  Every part of your anatomy is measured and he makes quick notes on a piece of paper, as he goes along.  This garment is bound to be perfect - he practically has a dummy model of your form on paper !  He staples a small triangle of your fabric to the paper with the measurements, for easy identification.

You are given a date for collection of your garment - anything from 1 week to a few weeks.  But invariably, when you go to collect the item, it's not ready and you are given a new date.  When you finally try the garment on, to your surprise, it doesn't bear any resemblance to your figure and doesn't fit at all !  So you conclude that as you left the shop, the paper with your measurements was balled and thrown into the nearest waste paper basket.

However, if you do find a good tailor, the partnership can be rewarding, with garments perfectly executed.  And so I climbed the stairs with some confidence, to the third floor, where 'My Tailor' had his small shop.  My request was simple - a cloth bag for my shopping and I had the fabric with me.    "No, I can't make that for you", he said firmly.  I argued that it was a simple and easy job, involving no measuring, zips or buttons!  "No, he said emphatically, now is the wedding season and I'm busy with big orders, as well as N.R.I. (non resident Indian) work".   Winter is the time when the NRIs return to India to visit and shop, many staying briefly in apartments which they own and which stand empty for rest of the year.

So my next stop was a man in the next complex, who had hemmed things for me on occasion.  But here again, the answer was 'no'.  "I only hem table cloths" he said "but try Ladlee - in the basement of the next complex".  It seemed like a 'bargain basement' suggestion, as the complexes, were becoming increasingly scruffy.

The shop was small and the owner, a very small old man with white hair and glasses, was bent over his sewing machine - a young apprentice sat behind him.  After a few minutes, he came over to see what I wanted.  I explained about the cloth bag...."yes, let me take some measurements".  I watched with relief as he jotted down the precise measurements - "You can collect on the 30th", he said and handed me his business card - it said 'Ladlee - All Cloth Alteration Shop'.  But to my surprise, I noticed that it also said that he did "Pranic Healing".  Somehow the bag lost its importance, perhaps what I really needed was healing ? !

TAZIAS AND MUHARRAM IN BARODA

A full moon lit the sky, it was 5.15 p.m., and traveling up Old Padra Road in a richshaw, gave a quick opportunity to view the sacred Muslim Procession of the Tazias, a day of mourning for Shia Muslims, who commemorate this day with a procession of model temples, carried on the back of a variety of vehicles - this was Muharram, the first month of the Muslim year.  These small reproductions of the domed tomb of the grandson of Muhammad, who was killed in the Battle of Kabala in Iraq (680 AD), vary in size from a meter to a few meters high, colourfully decorated in bright colours and intricate detail.   There was no music, common in Hindu processions, but a drum on wheels was beaten and preceded the procession.   People sat on the pavements, enjoying the cooler evening air,  admiring the exquisite display of floats, women wearing head scarves, men with immaculate white skull caps.

Despite the sense of occasion, this is a day of mourning for Shia Muslims, who commemorate the death of Husayn Ibn Ali, who they believe should have been Muhammad's rightful successor.

ODD NUMBERS

The date in consecutive odd numbers - 9/11/13 - is a rare event and won't happen again for a long time.  But the day was marked by an even stranger event......at first I thought the man was wearing very tight clothes, but as I drew closer, I saw that he wore no clothes at all, he was completely naked, walking with ease through the busiest part of town.  His hair was matted and as I drew level with him, I noticed that he had the ash & clay marks of the tika (blessing) on his forehead.  These marks differ in colour and form,  like bar codes, showing your religious affiliations.

The trident he carried over his left shoulder also suggested that he was a follower of the most important Hindu God, Shiva.  Shaivites, as they are known, believe that Shiva is All in All, creator, preserver and destroyer, revealer and concealer.  His gaze was firm, direct and unselfconscious and he had the easy gait of one who was used to walking great distances.  His straight, lithe frame carried no extra fat, his limbs were strong and firm.  Man as God intended......!   

TUBEROSE - RAJNI GANDHA

One of the surprising things, in a country with such a hot, dry and merciless climate, is the abundance of fragrant flowers.  Essential for garland making, flower heads are sold by weight and a bag of red roses, for as little as 5 rupees, placed in a bowl of water,  can give a room a scented ambience, for a couple of days.

The most popular cut flowers, sold on every street corner,  are Tuberoses or Rajni Gandha.  Originally they came from Mexico and Central America, but have thrived in India where the climate and soil conditions suit them.  The root is tuberous, but there is nothing 'rose' like about the flower.  This perennial  looks more like a lily, with creamy white flowers and the most exotic perfume you can imagine !  They're related to the Narcissus and Jonquil. Definitely an aphrodisiac, it's also calming and sleep inducing !

  

BHOPAL - READING BETWEEN THE LINES

Bhopal became infamous for the tragic gas leak in the 1980s which caused the death of thousands of the town's inhabitants, but a completely different aspect to this city has emerged since - it has become a thriving centre for art.   A long line of important Indian artists have emerged from Bhopal, the most famous being M.F. Hosein and their exhibitions enliven the national art scene.

The latest artist from Bhopal to exhibit in Gujarat, is Yusuf and perhaps, not surprisingly, the environment and its pollution, is the focus of his art.  Using gauze fabric, the entire exhibition is dedicated to 'The River' and deals with its use and abuse.  The gauze is made up of loose fibers which are worked in such a way as to allow layers to overlay layers, suggesting the translucence and also the opaque qualities of a river.  Even the framing glass is printed with ruled lines, creating an initial layer.   The river is treated as a linear object, like a highway, bringing great benefit, but suffering the consequences of pollution, along its route.  

The environment is a favourite subject for artists in India, who have much to say about urbanisation and its adverse effects.  This exhibition is beautiful in its very restrained, almost monochromatic colour palette and severe geometric abstraction.

   

DIWALI.....FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS.....NEW YEAR, ETC.

One holiday follows the next over a 5 day festival period.  By the end of Thursday, before the weekend of celebration, all ATMs and cash machines, had run out of money.  There was still no money on Saturday !  But this didn't dim the air of celebration - tea candles in teracotta diyas, coloured lights, fireworks and big bangs, heralded in Diwali on Sunday and New Year on Monday.

RED BOTTLE BRUSH

Flowering at Diwali, the Red Bottlebrush looks like a burst of fire crackers going off !

ART DECO IN VADODARA

A leafy street in the upmarket suburb of Alkapuri in Baroda, is lined with late Art Deco (1935 - 1950) houses in various stages of decay.  

These palatial homes, set in shady gardens with palm trees, oleander and bougainvillea, are the remnants of a bygone age of pastel colours and decorative detail.  

Once an exclusive and quiet neighbourhood, land has become so valuable that many of these home owners are selling up and moving out to a new suburb on the outskirts of town, where they can recapture the  exclusivity which they once enjoyed in Alkapuri.  

The old homes are being pulled down and replaced by modern, featureless blocks of flats, where the average rental is over 80 000 rupees per month.

Some houses are no longer as they were in their prime and decorative features like 'lead-light' windows, are buckled and bowed, but despite this, they have an air of distinguished grace.

Leaded windows have a long history extending from medieval times, when stain glass windows decorated structures from Gothic Cathedrals to small Parish Churches, in varying degrees of complexity.  But increasingly the more simple 'lead-light' windows were used in domestic architecture as a decorative feature at the front of the house, to introduce an element of colour into the facade.  In the 20th century, artists like Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Tiffany, popularised stain glass as an art form and windows, door panels and stair wells, were often glazed in this way.  Known as 'came glasswork' the small pieces of coloured glass are held in place by lead cames, whose joints are soldered together to give the panel its rigidity and then supported by a metal armature.  Lead was popular because it was cheap, but also because it was soft and malleable.  Unfortunately, this very quality, causes the window to sag, over time and without restoration, the glass eventually falls out.  

In the past, every town would have had a thriving industry in lead-lighting, but now the craft has become increasingly rare - something an artist might do, as a specialised commission, for a price !

RANGOLI & MOSAIC - ENDURING GEOMETRY

Difficult to believe that rangoli designs to celebrate Diwali, are created out of coloured sand !  Apart from the central circle, designs are mostly free-hand, embodying the energy of the designer, as the sand slips through the fingers.

This one decorating the entrance to a large  shopping mall, looked more like an intricate pile carpet, with its patterns of lines and swirls - it reminded me of the mosaic pavements in medieval churches in Italy.

However, rangoli designs are not meant to last,  and at the end of the Diwali season, they will be swept away !  The mosaic pavement below, made out of small stone tesserae, in front of the altar at the church of S. Miniato in Florence, has been around for 600 years !  

                                                             
                                                       Mosaic Pavement - San Miniato, Florence, 13th century