MUMBAI - ALL CHANGE

His every muscle, nerve and sinew seemed engaged in changing up - the gear lever was on the steering column and as a passenger, you were involuntarily involved in all the changes he made from 1st to 2nd, major shift to third which involved the whole shoulder muscle and this tension even extended to the jaw.   Then the change into 4th, as the speed built up,  his attention shifted, as he looked warily over his shoulder, watching  for anyone overtaking him on the inside, checked the mirror, who was coming up behind, calculated the width of the vehicle, the speed, re calibrated, jockeyed for position at the signal ahead, it's red, stop, turn off the engine to save fuel - every bit helps in this cut-throat quest for profit, be ready to turn the key in the ignition on the dash and change into first for take-off when the light changes.  Each yellow and black Fiat cab is individualized with logo and signs - although the shape and size are insignificant and identical, the power lies in the logo !  These are the 'heavy metal rock 'n rollers' of the Mumbai streets !  But they're being phased out - Government decision - these taxi cabs have got to go by 2012 because they guzzle fuel and foul the air !  Emissions...they have to make way for something more environmentally friendly

'Do you think I should apply a little more rust to the chassis' ?    We were looking at the artist's latest metal painting.  It was a large sheet and she had painted a more or less life-size yellow and black taxi cab on it - a real bumper formed the lower part of the frame, as this painted rear view of the vehicle disappeared off into the hazy glow of paradise set with stars - a fitting tribute to the demise of the old Fiat Taxi Cab - a painted 'In Memorium' .

This represents a fundamental change for the city and for its 60 000 cab drivers.  Because it's not just a cab, it's an icon, representing ownership and identity, it's a temple, it's a shrine - Ganesha sits on the dash, it's a repository of faith and belief and superstition, it's a place of work, it's a steed !