Tuesday 12 October 2010

GARBAR DANCING IN GUJARAT

The sight of 20 000 people dancing in rhythm, barefoot, on the dusty ground, dresses and curtas sparkling with mirrors and sequins, is awe-inspiring.  The season of the 9 nights of dancing is religious in origin but the crowd looked like a huge disco party having a good time.  Men wore a variety of costumes in bright colours, some with turbans and the girls were dressed in garba skirts, blouses and dupattas.  In all the crowd, not one outfit was the same.  Helen had come over specially from Germany for the season - "I get home at 1 a.m."  she said  "and even with my long skirt, I am covered in dust - it takes me 45 minutes to remove all the jewelry and wash off the dust"  So what is the attraction ?  "It's fun" she said !

The event takes place in every corner of the town - each with its own particular style.  In Alkapuri, the arena is small and grassed and the whole family is involved, from little children to grandmothers.  The dance starts sedately, but after half an hour, the pace quickens and the dance becames more complicated - women, normally housebound, shine with perspiration, as they gyrate in time to the music.  Little children sparkling in their special dresses run in and out of the crowd, trying out the steps, as they go.  Some women bravely carry heavy household shrines on their heads, hoping for extra blessings from the Goddess Durga, around whom the dance is performed.

The conversation at the International Women's Club lunch, was all about who had been brave enough to dress up and participate and who had got into the newspaper !

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