Well...... I didn't expect to find a baby having its hair shaved off ! The Step Wells of dry, arid, Gujarat are very elaborate - not just a run of the mill kind of well, but stepped, sculpted and deep....going there for water seems incidental to the mysterious, hallowed, atmosphere. This one had a beautiful entrance with sculpted panels bearing elephants. Shoes were removed before descending countless stairs down to the murky depths, past little wall shrines and offerings of coconuts and we could see half way down the stairs, numerous pairs of shoes, discarded by others before us for what was obviously a religious ceremony. Also the smell of acrid smoke from a fire burning down amongst the gathered crowd. Approaching gingerly, we were greeted by welcoming smiles. A dozen women were sitting in a close group, their best saris shimmering with decorative, embroidery. The woman at the head of the group was holding on to a seated child of about 2 years old, while a man, gently holding its head, carefully shaved off the child's hair with a professional razor - this was a lot easier than a circumcision, but the little boy was still crying. The snips of hair lay collected in the lap of a little girl - the hair would be offered later in the temple with a prayer for good luck and long life. Shaving the head signifies 'freedom from the ills of your previous life and celebration of your new life'.A most auspicious occasion was taking place in the cool, dank, depths of that well.
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