DINNER AT 8.30 P.M.

Are you free Friday night?   "Come to dinner - the Maharajah will be there and the Deputy High Commissioner from Mumbai and the Chancellor of the University - just let me check the seating plan" !    

Knowing that the rickshaw would take ages to find the address, I set off early - winding our way through the maze of dark streets, I wondered if we would ever find the place and then there it unmistakably was - lights sparkled from every tree, fairy lights decorated every corner - this was definitely it !  I paid the rickshaw and walked through the gates, a smiling guard ushered me through.

Aladdin's Cave ?  The house glowed - walking through the front door, I was met by an expansive hug and introductions - paintings covered every inch of every wall and even the ceilings.  Enormous vases with flowers lit up every corner.  The doors of the drinks cabinet were thrown open to reveal a host of back-lit, shining bottles with everything from Whiskey to Gin.  I was handed a glass of chilled white wine from his Estate in Southern India  - the tallest wine glass I'd ever seen, with a stem which was achingly slim.  Set out on a carved circular table, were a tempting display of olives, stuffed chillies and assorted h'orderves.  Guests filtered in, some were industrialists who made machinery of different types - threshing machines, ball bearings, etc., there were also artists and writers and of course the Maharajah and his wife.  A guest, dressed in a sari with large bindi,  stood in front of one of her canvases - bold  figurative work with large slashing brush strokes, she pointed out several other of her works in the room.   Dinner was served at 9.30 p.m.-  mutton, chicken, stuffed aubergines, briyani and paneer, served in exotic ceramic bowls.  We were seated on chairs draped with silk ribbon bows, white table cloths and gold-plated cutlery.  Wine was served from two headed decanters, lamps glowed, opera played in the background.   A  toast was raised, "To the honoured guest",  laughter abounded.   Our host looked after every little detail.  Desert was served.  The High Commissioner raised a toast to our host, who looked pleased - the air conditioning kept everything cool.  Waiters refilled glasses.  And then it was time to go.....unlike Italy, where people linger after a meal, here in India, they leave directly !

Was that what it feels like to be whisked along to a fairy kingdom on a magic carpet ?