The old palace, built for the Maharajah's daughter, was now a crumbling shadow of its former self. Constructed in the 19th century, by one of the finest architects of the British Raj, with a timber frame and red brick, the stone work detailing, overhanging balconies and courtyard filled with palm trees, still evoked a romantic echo, of an illustrious family, living a life of privilege and power.
The Maharajah once ruled the State, palaces were built for all his progeny and their collection of paintings, sculptures and jewels, was legend. The 'Pearl Carpet and Canopy', made of pearls and rose cut diamonds, was sold in 2009, so too the Baroda double-string, pearl necklace. Diamonds like the famous Star of the South, English Dresden, Empress Eugenie, Akbar Shah and Moon of Baroda, were now just names. Time and necessity have eroded the stockpile of gem stones - and the palaces have either been taken over by the military, or lie in ruins, as discarded relics of the past.
Nevertheless, I felt some surprise, when I was told that the Maharajah could see me at 12.30 the following day. The grounds leading up to the palace, which now serves as the family office, were a tangle of weeds and monsoon mud, which made the approach slippery. The old wooden staircase creaked and at the top I found corridors of empty rooms. His secretary's room was open and the usual supporting cast of one or two elderly men wearing caps, sat on empty benches outside. I only had to wait 5 minutes and was shown into the Maharajah's office. He was talking on his mobile phone and a barely audible 'namaste' was breathed in my direction, as he continued his conversation. The room was dark, but not very different to the other empty rooms I'd seen. He was a good looking man, who wore a faint air of disdain and ennui - I thought of his illustrious ancestors and their exotic lifestyle and now, overtaken by history and change, this man was negotiating to turn the main family palace, which rivals Buckingham Palace in size, into a hotel, with 18 hole golf course - the family would move into a small villa in the grounds.
I had come to talk about doing some research on an artist whose work was in the family collection. As he spoke, the meerest twinkle lit his eyes and he immediately arranged for me to see the appropriate person. Reflecting afterwards, I realised that despite his availability and his ready interest in my topic, the real work of actual access, getting past all the minor officials, still lay ahead and in India, that is like entering a maze and whether you ever reach your objective, is in the lap of the Gods, or the amount of baksheesh you are willing to pay.
The Maharajah once ruled the State, palaces were built for all his progeny and their collection of paintings, sculptures and jewels, was legend. The 'Pearl Carpet and Canopy', made of pearls and rose cut diamonds, was sold in 2009, so too the Baroda double-string, pearl necklace. Diamonds like the famous Star of the South, English Dresden, Empress Eugenie, Akbar Shah and Moon of Baroda, were now just names. Time and necessity have eroded the stockpile of gem stones - and the palaces have either been taken over by the military, or lie in ruins, as discarded relics of the past.
Nevertheless, I felt some surprise, when I was told that the Maharajah could see me at 12.30 the following day. The grounds leading up to the palace, which now serves as the family office, were a tangle of weeds and monsoon mud, which made the approach slippery. The old wooden staircase creaked and at the top I found corridors of empty rooms. His secretary's room was open and the usual supporting cast of one or two elderly men wearing caps, sat on empty benches outside. I only had to wait 5 minutes and was shown into the Maharajah's office. He was talking on his mobile phone and a barely audible 'namaste' was breathed in my direction, as he continued his conversation. The room was dark, but not very different to the other empty rooms I'd seen. He was a good looking man, who wore a faint air of disdain and ennui - I thought of his illustrious ancestors and their exotic lifestyle and now, overtaken by history and change, this man was negotiating to turn the main family palace, which rivals Buckingham Palace in size, into a hotel, with 18 hole golf course - the family would move into a small villa in the grounds.
I had come to talk about doing some research on an artist whose work was in the family collection. As he spoke, the meerest twinkle lit his eyes and he immediately arranged for me to see the appropriate person. Reflecting afterwards, I realised that despite his availability and his ready interest in my topic, the real work of actual access, getting past all the minor officials, still lay ahead and in India, that is like entering a maze and whether you ever reach your objective, is in the lap of the Gods, or the amount of baksheesh you are willing to pay.
No comments:
Post a Comment