Thursday 13 October 2011

THE GEM DEALER OF RAJASTHAN

The car could only get a certain distance down the road, as it became narrower and busier with the usual chaos of Indian street life.  A turn into an even narrower and busier street, full of beeping motor bikes and auto-rickshaws, led through a maze of shops, animals, and people, cramped and crowded.  A man appeared from nowhere - apparently our guide to Daya's shop - we followed him as he ducked and dived through the crowds.  We turned left through a gateway - a cow blocked our path - we manoeuvred gingerly past and into a small courtyard - could this possibly be the way to the famous 'Daya', gem king of Rajasthan ?  "Yes, yes" - our guide pointed to a small door with a curtain hanging in front of it.

Daya, had been a Brahman Priest, but had decided to become a gem dealer, in order to make money and realise his dream of building a temple.  His face was inscrutable and calm, he sat cross legged behind his counter and invited us to enter.  Shoes were removed, cushions brought out for us to sit on, tea was offered.  We wanted to see gems and he was a wholesale dealer.

Turquoises at first - beautiful stones which glittered in the light, then as he warmed to the task, packets of stones were unwrapped, strings of rubies, emeralds, saphires, then the lesser known stones spinell, topaz, lapis lazuli, peridot.  The heap of stones grew larger.  Two Italian designers dropped in and were soon engrossed in looking and selecting for their shops abroad.  There was a constant flow of customers and vendors - packets of stones, packets of money, millions of rupees in bundles - the counter became the stage in this theatre production of money and gems - the dialogue was clarity, size, purity, rarity and price......"I buy and sell all day, every day from 9.00 a.m. to 9.00 p.m." he said simply - "it's a passion"


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