NARRATIVE

This mural, by one of India's leading artists, behind the Reception Desk of the only 5 star hotel in town is a fascinating commentary on local street life.  It is so typical of the Indian love of narrative.  The clock showing 2.25 p.m. and the sun no longer over head, sets the mood for the entire story - it's afternoon, a pause between the buzz of the day's beginning and frenzy of life as evening approaches.  The presence of animals and the way they interact with street life, the quiet interiors and people watching and looking out and the street barber quietly at work at the end of the panel, helps to create a slow rhythm.  And against this backdrop, the hotel receptionists move backwards and forwards and hotel guests book in and check out, so becoming part of the whole ambience - a constantly changing narrative !

LEARNER DRIVER

Cows wander the streets with complete freedom and it is often amazing to see the audacity of some of their jay walking.  Drivers, given the choice, would rather collide with a pedestrian than a cow - they are holy and enjoy divine protection.  They can be seen snuffling through the heaps of rubbish on the streets, their diet being just about anything including plastic bags, newspapers and other unmentionables.  Some shopkeepers throw them a banana and even the occasional rothi.  Milk is sold in plastic bags on street corners early in the morning but since it isn't pasturised, it needs a lot of boiling before it's safe to drink.

Waiting at the biggest and busiest traffic circle in town, the most absurd sight caught my attention - a cow and newly born calf entered the stream of traffic, the calf running on wobbly legs in the midst of the mayhem and without "L" plates, they made their way, with the largest volume of hooting, beeping, traffic into the circle and then took the second exit, going the wrong way up the motorway - talk about throwing your young in at the deep end !

FOOLISH DECISION ?

Matching the colour of the dupatta with the churidas/tights/salwas and getting them to complement the kurti is more difficult than it sounds, but Indian women put a lot of thought into matching these co-ordinates and wearing the appropriate colours for the appropriate occasions.

To shortcut these complications, I chose a beige kurti and beige leggings - now just to find a dupatta to go with this neutral layout - easy ?  "You can't wear a silk dupatta with a cotton kurti" she said with finality  Picking up a stole in iridescent turquoise and cream  with a thunderbolt from Zeus design, she said "this is perfect, it's quiet and sober and just right for your business meeting" - I looked at the alarming fabric - I had never worn that colour in my life - I wondered if the frantic pattern would energise everyone in the room and cause a rash of hasty decisions...

"What about this one" I said hesitatingly, choosing something in dull reds and blues of natural vegetable dye, which seemed to blend with my beige ensemble in an entirely sympathetic and unassuming  way..."Oh no - that's far too festive - you would wear that for a Diwali party"  was her emphatic reply.

Now I was in a very difficult position, having asked her expert advice, but how could  turquoise thunderbolts look quiet and sober ?   "I'll have to go to the meeting looking festive" I said.  With a disapproving snigger, she accepted my choice....but her look spoke volumes....."you're making a mistake madam" !!