THE NEW YEAR

New Year in India depends on your region of origin and your religious beliefs - the Bengalis celebrate New Year in April, as do the Punjabis.  The Gujarati New Year is the day after Diwali in November, according to the Lunar Calendar.  For some, the date is linked to the winter solstice and the harvest festival, heralding a new financial year.  You become accustomed to wishing various Indian friends and associates, a 'Happy New Year', at the appropriate times, throughout the year.  So the Western, Christian, Gregorian solar Calendar year end,  in place for centuries in the West, is a fairly low key affair in India and is not greeted with the huge pyrotechnic displays of the West !   Though some of the big international hotels do make an effort, for the sake of their guests - like the ice sculpture of 2014 !

'2014' - ice sculpture

GOLDEN BOUGAINVILLEA & PALE GREEN ART DECO

BORDER CONTROL

I had always thought that only Italian women could get away with wearing sequins at midday in the supermarket !  But India changed that misconception - sequins are worn everyday by everyone, even in the hot, dusty streets, buying veggies off a barrow !

The most mundane fabrics can be transformed by bling, they even drape it over their vehicles to ward off the evil eye !  The cotton and clothing industry is big business and the warp and weft of it runs through society.  Sari shops are a dominant part of the urban landscape, tailors abound and colourful fabrics explode out of shop entrances.  And if you don't like the colour, you can have it dyed to suit your palette !

But the shops which offer the most possibility for transformation, are the Border Shops.  Row upon row of fabulous borders in all sizes, colours and designs are a visual delight.  Many of them are hand embroidered in lengths of 8 meters, to be sewn onto a sari, or narrower borders to sew onto a kurti or tunic. The proprietor of the shop usually has an expert eye for colour coordination and a good understanding of ratio and proportion, for this specialised art form.  The border, like a piece of applied art, can define and enhance the garment, raising it to another level - into something unforgettable   !

AWAY IN A MANGER......

The Christmas Carol ran through my head.....but the cows of Gujarat have no manger apart from the city streets !  They are very docile creatures, with their large expressionless eyes, long drooping ears, huge curved shoulder hump, proud upright horns and slow unhurried gait, as they create their own traffic chaos, crossing roads wherever they see fit, or even lying in the middle of the road, traffic parting on either side, to make way for the obstruction !

In the Monsoon season, they head straight for the town, where they can find dry roads and buildings under which to shelter and in winter, they prefer the town environment because the streets are warm and they can be seen sitting in groups of 5 or 6 on the dusty roads, their eyes closed, soaking up the heat of the sun.

New calves are born in this winter season and they quickly learn how to get around the city streets, under the watchful and protective eye of the mother.  However, I'd never seen a calf riding on a scooter before - the farmer had the new born over his lap, presumably transporting it out of town, but what was remarkable was the docility of the small creature, who seemed to accept this as a perfectly pleasant way to travel - but the mother cow's reaction was quite different !  I hadn't realised how fast a cow could move until I witnessed this incident - she was in hot pursuit, at a canter, keeping up with the fast pace of the scooter, her heavy udder swinging, as her hooves clattered over the road, determined to keep her new born within sniffing distance !  Her anxiety and distress were palpable.  The unshakeable maternal bond which transcends all obstacles !

THE PIAZZA

The piazza in Italy is usually found at the confluence of many streets, often irregular in shape, it might be dominated at one end by a church, or in some cases, the seat of Government.  Benches provide a place to sit and you might also find a drinking fountain, but mostly, it's a place of light and air, a relief after the narrow, dark, medieval streets.  The Piazza Repubblica in Florence was created in the 19th century, as a prestigious focal point for a city which had become the Capital of Italy, albeit briefly.  Dominated by a mighty Arch of Triumph, it is lined with expensive restaurants and an antique roundabout for children.

Increasingly, the idea is catching on in India and as new shopping malls go up, they are building them off the street, allowing for a wide, marble paved, piazza in front of the mall, away from the heat and dust of the street.  This rectangular space incorporates a perimeter wall and built in seat, running the full length and breadth of the space.  Trees, provide shade during the day and in the evening, Indian families come out to sit and chat, while the children play in the paved area in front.  Ice cream vendors are on hand to garner business and in some more up-market malls, a merry-go-rounds provides entertainment over the weekend.

With increasing urbanisation, this kind of space is very necessary, as an alternative to available park land.

DOSER

A masala doser for breakfast, is a unique and special Indian treat !   Extraordinary to look at and simply delicious to eat, they definitely have the wow factor.  Served with a flourish, they resemble a Christmas Cracker, but much longer and broader - the thin crisp pancake overlaps the plate on both sides by at least 4" and tucked into the middle, as a complete surprise and change in texture, is the curried mashed potato  !

The pancake is made from rice, which has been soaking in water and lentils, left to ferment over night, then crushed and mixed to form a batter.  This is then applied in a thin layer on a hot griddle and cooked.  Gluten and sugar free, with no saturated fats, it's packed with Vitamins B and C,  enhanced during the fermentation process.

The filling of curried potatoes and peas, is prepared to individual taste and rolled into the centre.  The doser is usually served with two chutneys - cool coconut and also a hot and spicy masala chutney.  The way to eat this amazing parcel of goodness, is to bend over the long protruding ends of pancake, as if you are wrapping a parcel and then pull off pieces of the doser with your fingers, to dip into the chutney.

Of course, making the batter is the most time consuming part of the preparation, but you can eliminate this step by buying the batter ready made, mixed for you, at the side of the road, by a doserwallah and sold in plastic bags.  The rest is up to you !

THE ART OF RECYCLING

If you haven't worn it for 6 months, get rid of it !  There's no point in keeping old clothes in the closet.  Easier said than done ?  In Italy, there are charity bins at depot sites on the side of the road, where you can deposit unwanted items of clothing, but what do you do in India, where no such service exists ?

Barkha was quick with her reply...."that's easy, a woman comes round to my house on a regular basis with a bundle of stainless steel kitchen items and trades them for old clothes, which she then sells at the market!  She'll say that she wants 10 items of clothing for that stainless steel mug, and so on....I buy all my basic household items, in this way".  The women have sometimes lost the male breadwinner in the family because they've died or become alcoholics and this is their way of bringing in an income !

SMALL CONVERSATION

"Do you buy diamonds ?"  she asked.  We were in the gym locker room briefly, after training.  Startled by this unexpected question but curious enough to play along, I made some non-commital reply.  We agreed to meet at her house, the next day.

Only in India could one be asked such a bizarre question in passing !  But then Indians love jewelry and it's an important part of their culture, especially for the bride at her wedding.  Both men and women wear an appropriate stone on the first finger to ensure good health, wealth, peace and happiness, if a planetary influence is weak, according to their astrological chart, this will be compensated by a particular stone.  This is very often a yellow sapphire, set in 24 carat gold !  Jewelry, in particular gold and diamonds, is a legitimate investment and the high proportion of jewelry shops in and around town, is impressive - the latest being Joyalukkas, which opened with much fan fare during Diwali, even featuring a Bollywood star in attendance, to draw the crowds.

She carefully opened a small packet holding 1.27 carats of  baguette diamonds.  They sparkled in the light.  "They are exceptionally good quality and have very few impurities"  she told me..."I buy only the best stones from Seurat - they come from South Africa, but are cut and polished in India".  With this she produced a magnifying glass and demonstrated the technique of checking quality.  Then came a packet of ordinary diamonds...."I can also get hold of rubies and emeralds, if you'll give me a day or two".

One of the joys of India is the accessibility of the exotic, in the midst of the mundane !

THE BANDWALLAHS

Like the troubadours of Medieval Europe, the bandwallahs travel around providing music for weddings during the marriage season.  Dressed, to kill, with caps, brass buttons and epaulettes, they have a repertoire of all the latest Bollywood songs.

The wedding procession is a major celebration and the local hotel provides the starting point for many of them, heading towards a number of nearby 'wedding plots'.  Traditionally, the procession or baraat of the groom and his family and supporters, to meet the bride and her family, takes place at night - the exact timing having been worked out according to an astrological chart.  

Two young men carry the firecrackers and rockets - these are laid and lit and they quickly stand back as  they go off with a swoosh and loud bang.  The next in the firing line, quite literally, are the two young men carrying the banner and one wonders if they've ever had to dodge the odd squib !  They're followed by the brass band - at least two tubas, a variety of french horns and cornets, which provide a blast of music, to rival the performance of the drummers further back.  They're followed by the beautifully decorated wedding carriage in the shape of a swan - the drummers provide an earsplitting rhythm - they are then followed by the most spectacular part of the procession, the 12 women carrying tall, brightly lit candelabras on their heads !

These phallic shaped electric lights in multi colours, together with the pulsating music, create an eye catching effect ! The women are linked to each other by a lengthy electric flex, as they light the way for the dancing guests and men bedecked in turbans (a mark of honour). Bringing up the rear, on a cart,  is the all important electric generator, providing power for the candelabras and microphones !


Traditionally, the groom is supposed to ride on a horse, but most elect to travel by car, embellished and decorated with floral wreaths !

The sheer energy and celebration of this procession is infectious.  The bandwallahs give it all they've got with tireless enthusiasm.  It's an important occasion, ensuring the continuation of the line and the joining of two families !


                    
                   

THE FRATERNITY OF GLOBAL PLANTS - PETREA

Petrea - another tropical evergreen plant here in India, which comes from Central America, Mexico and Africa.  Flowering in Spring, it's the tropical equivalent of Wisteria in Europe

FINDING A LINK

The Acanthus is one of the oldest plants in the Mediterranean.  It's distinctive leaf shape was adapted as early as the 5th c BC, in a decorative stylized form, by a Greek sculptor, who was inspired by a votive basket left beside the grave of a young girl - some toys had been put into the basket and a tile placed over the top for protection.  An acanthus plant had grown up through the cross weave of the basket over time, its leaves protruding gracefully.   The sculptor  was so taken by the visual impact, that he adapted it to create the classical capital known as the 'Corinthian Capital', an important element in Greek and Roman architecture.

The use of the acanthus leaf was so beloved by the Romans that they invented the 'Composite Capital', which incorporates both the acanthus leaf and the ionic scroll.  It was also used extensively in other forms of decoration, in every medium and has endured to the present day.  It symbolises eternal life, or life after death, rebirth and reincarnation.

Here, in an old, shady street, lined with Art Deco houses in Baroda,  the acanthus leaf decorates a wrought iron lantern.

THE SEASON FOR WEDDINGS

Winter is the season for weddings and families spend a huge amount of money to create the perfect occasion.  Everything is adorned with flowers - usually white and orange.  Guests wear silk and the hair is decorated with sweet smelling garlands of jasmine.

CHAAT

The most popular roadside snack is 'chaat', a word meaning delicious !  There are many different varieties but it is based around rice crispy or crisp potato pieces with a topping of freshly chopped onion, tomato, spices, a variety of chutneys and a sprinkling of coriander.  This kind of eating on the run is very popular because it's tasty, cheap and quick !  It's so popular that you can even order it in the cinema and they'll bring you a plate of it at interval, to keep you going during the second half.....!

Chaat is sold in other parts of the world where there is a substantial Indian population, but according to one Indian friend who had returned after some years in the U.S.,  because conditions are so hygienic, it spoils the flavour - you have to have the heat, dust and dodgy water of India, for chaat to taste really good !

THE INDIAN BICYCLE

THE PALACE !

Coming round the bend in the pitch darkness,  suddenly in front of us, like something out of a fairytale, the Palace was ablaze with lights, its compact form illuminated from the topmost spire down to the ground !  Dating from the mid-nineteenth century, the palace is an Indo Saracenic extravaganza, set in 700 acres of park land, built by Major Charles Mant, a Scottish Engineer !  Still home to the Gaekwad family and the current Maharaja, it was part of an expansive building programme which shaped much of Baroda City, a hundred-and-fifty years ago.

The concert was to be staged in the grand Darbar Hall of Lukshmi Villas Palace - featuring 15 clarinetists mostly from Leon, in France, 'L'Ensemble de Clarinettes de Vouiron', celebrating a fusion of Western and Eastern music.  The red carpet was out and shoes were to be removed.  The Hall, with its Belgian stain glass panels, was lit by huge crystal chandeliers and the intricate Italian mosaic floor was covered by a vast, soft, white duvet.  Gold lozenger shaped bolsters were dotted around for guests to lean against through the 2 hour programme !  And wide doors opened onto an Italianate courtyard, with fountains creating spurts and cascades of water, the cool air drifting into the hall beyond and the background splash, setting the mood for the evening.

But far from being a fusion of sounds, it seemed more like an occasional 'infusion', as the tempo and intricacies of the clarinet, bear little relation to the haunting sound of the Indian bamboo flute and the tabla and dholak, create a distinctive and urgent rhythm, which is essentially Indian.

This was an occasion for the high society of the town - they were all present, exquisitely dressed in saris and the men in kurtis, whilst the Western expat community was represented in their full complement, of about 30 people, mostly employed on contract, by foreign European companies.

RAMPHAL OR SITA PHAL (CUSTARD APPLES)

These eye-catching fruit come onto the streets in winter - such an odd shape and unusual flavour, they're like nothing else.  Originating in the West Indies, Bermuda, Florida and Mexico,  they are now grown in North East India in the Calcutta region.

Sometimes called 'Sweet Apple', or perhaps more appropriately because of the shape, 'Bullock's Heart',  (as they are known in Mediterranean countries), they are packed with Vitamins and free radicals and considered a cure-all for a number of ailments.  However, you need a practiced eye when buying them, otherwise it's a costly mistake !  The flavour is like a grainy form of custard.  They sell for about 120 rupees per kilo and for the same money, you could buy yourself an entire thali lunch with roti, subji, rice and a desert !

They need to be soft and ripe, otherwise they are inedible.  They can be eaten with a little spoon to  scoop out the custard interior, or they can be mashed through muslin to make a delicious flavouring for milkshakes or ice cream !

THE CROSSROADS

Gujarat prides itself on having some of the best roads in the country, an important asset in India's rapid urbanisation.  So when the new flyover, linking the new town with the old town was complete, a brand new traffic circle was constructed to mark the junction between old and new.  It also links the very affluent part of the commercial district with the suburbs.

The temple structure, its figure within and the frieze of elephants round the base of the plinth, was under wraps for months, tantalisingly obscured from view.  And then one day without much ceremony the coverings were removed.  The beautiful white rotunda and dome of the little temple provide a tranquil space for the Holy Man within, who sits calmly contemplative, against his cushion, in the midst of the mayhem of  this busy junction of traffic !

  

THE SMALLEST GARAGE IN THE WORLD ?

Scooters, bikes and even the odd car, drive up to this minute garage-in-a-box, to have their mechanical problems dealt with !  The garage owner sits appropriately on a tyre in front of the 'shop' - its doors opened wide for business.  At night, the cosy interior is lit by a naked electric light bulb and clients crouch down for hasty consultations, tyres are mended, right there and then, or pumped up or changed in this little roadside hub of entrepreneurship !

THE COW CIRCLE

Traffic Circles in Vadodara haven't any real theme and appear to be quite varied - some purely secular, funded by a private individual, whilst others are more religious or political in content.

The Cow Circle is an important landmark - its gleaming whiteness, the typical Indian cow with its hump and long ears and little calf are a reference point in Productivity Road.  The axis of this busy commercial thoroughfare starts and finishes with a circular temple at each end, the Cow Circle, halfway down, marks an important transverse junction with another major road.

Real cows are a fact of life in India as they wander through the town - they seem to be quite aware of traffic and have as much sensitivity to its randomness as any savvy rickshaw driver.  Their sheer bulk, size and number though,  ensure that they have right of way at all times.  But of course the cow is sacred in Hindu culture and they are respected and venerated by all.  Given the choice, a car driver would rather knock down a person than a cow, if put to the test.

Their ambling gait and placid temperament in the midst of the frenetic traffic, does indeed seem to have certain divine qualities and everyone is familiar with the story of Lord Krishna, who was a cow herder and Nandi the Bull, Shiva's avatar.  Further they provide milk which yields butter and supplies ghee, used in all sacred rituals and sacrifices.

With its gleaming whiteness, the Cow Circle sculpture, though essentially Indian, makes one think fleetingly of Della Robbia in Italy !

THE BIRD OF PARADISE BUSH

Found in hot dry climates like Arizona in the U.S., parts of South America, South Africa and Mauritius, this hardy shrub is not as common as you'd think.  When I first saw it in India, it was like finding an old children's book, that you thought had gone out of print !  It brought back old fashioned memories of summer, as it radiated colour - so aptly named, the flowers seem to fly around the bush with their long trailing filaments and frilly edges, outlined in gold.

THE TAILOR

A good tailor is worth his weight in gold, but the challenge is to keep him up to scratch and on your side, so that he is willing to keep taking your orders !

Shopping complexes are full of tiny tailors' shops, with a variety of promising names:  'The Ladies Tailor', 'Perfect Tailors', 'Golden Scissors', etc.  Recommendations from people you know, are not always a guarantee of success - what's good for the goose is not always good for the gander.

Typically you will wait in a queue for your turn to present your fabric, while others before you have long and detailed conversations about their own garment.  Eventually it's your turn and the measuring begins.  The tailor is barefoot and a tape measure hangs around his neck.  Every part of your anatomy is measured and he makes quick notes on a piece of paper, as he goes along.  This garment is bound to be perfect - he practically has a dummy model of your form on paper !  He staples a small triangle of your fabric to the paper with the measurements, for easy identification.

You are given a date for collection of your garment - anything from 1 week to a few weeks.  But invariably, when you go to collect the item, it's not ready and you are given a new date.  When you finally try the garment on, to your surprise, it doesn't bear any resemblance to your figure and doesn't fit at all !  So you conclude that as you left the shop, the paper with your measurements was balled and thrown into the nearest waste paper basket.

However, if you do find a good tailor, the partnership can be rewarding, with garments perfectly executed.  And so I climbed the stairs with some confidence, to the third floor, where 'My Tailor' had his small shop.  My request was simple - a cloth bag for my shopping and I had the fabric with me.    "No, I can't make that for you", he said firmly.  I argued that it was a simple and easy job, involving no measuring, zips or buttons!  "No, he said emphatically, now is the wedding season and I'm busy with big orders, as well as N.R.I. (non resident Indian) work".   Winter is the time when the NRIs return to India to visit and shop, many staying briefly in apartments which they own and which stand empty for rest of the year.

So my next stop was a man in the next complex, who had hemmed things for me on occasion.  But here again, the answer was 'no'.  "I only hem table cloths" he said "but try Ladlee - in the basement of the next complex".  It seemed like a 'bargain basement' suggestion, as the complexes, were becoming increasingly scruffy.

The shop was small and the owner, a very small old man with white hair and glasses, was bent over his sewing machine - a young apprentice sat behind him.  After a few minutes, he came over to see what I wanted.  I explained about the cloth bag...."yes, let me take some measurements".  I watched with relief as he jotted down the precise measurements - "You can collect on the 30th", he said and handed me his business card - it said 'Ladlee - All Cloth Alteration Shop'.  But to my surprise, I noticed that it also said that he did "Pranic Healing".  Somehow the bag lost its importance, perhaps what I really needed was healing ? !

TAZIAS AND MUHARRAM IN BARODA

A full moon lit the sky, it was 5.15 p.m., and traveling up Old Padra Road in a richshaw, gave a quick opportunity to view the sacred Muslim Procession of the Tazias, a day of mourning for Shia Muslims, who commemorate this day with a procession of model temples, carried on the back of a variety of vehicles - this was Muharram, the first month of the Muslim year.  These small reproductions of the domed tomb of the grandson of Muhammad, who was killed in the Battle of Kabala in Iraq (680 AD), vary in size from a meter to a few meters high, colourfully decorated in bright colours and intricate detail.   There was no music, common in Hindu processions, but a drum on wheels was beaten and preceded the procession.   People sat on the pavements, enjoying the cooler evening air,  admiring the exquisite display of floats, women wearing head scarves, men with immaculate white skull caps.

Despite the sense of occasion, this is a day of mourning for Shia Muslims, who commemorate the death of Husayn Ibn Ali, who they believe should have been Muhammad's rightful successor.

ODD NUMBERS

The date in consecutive odd numbers - 9/11/13 - is a rare event and won't happen again for a long time.  But the day was marked by an even stranger event......at first I thought the man was wearing very tight clothes, but as I drew closer, I saw that he wore no clothes at all, he was completely naked, walking with ease through the busiest part of town.  His hair was matted and as I drew level with him, I noticed that he had the ash & clay marks of the tika (blessing) on his forehead.  These marks differ in colour and form,  like bar codes, showing your religious affiliations.

The trident he carried over his left shoulder also suggested that he was a follower of the most important Hindu God, Shiva.  Shaivites, as they are known, believe that Shiva is All in All, creator, preserver and destroyer, revealer and concealer.  His gaze was firm, direct and unselfconscious and he had the easy gait of one who was used to walking great distances.  His straight, lithe frame carried no extra fat, his limbs were strong and firm.  Man as God intended......!   

TUBEROSE - RAJNI GANDHA

One of the surprising things, in a country with such a hot, dry and merciless climate, is the abundance of fragrant flowers.  Essential for garland making, flower heads are sold by weight and a bag of red roses, for as little as 5 rupees, placed in a bowl of water,  can give a room a scented ambience, for a couple of days.

The most popular cut flowers, sold on every street corner,  are Tuberoses or Rajni Gandha.  Originally they came from Mexico and Central America, but have thrived in India where the climate and soil conditions suit them.  The root is tuberous, but there is nothing 'rose' like about the flower.  This perennial  looks more like a lily, with creamy white flowers and the most exotic perfume you can imagine !  They're related to the Narcissus and Jonquil. Definitely an aphrodisiac, it's also calming and sleep inducing !

  

BHOPAL - READING BETWEEN THE LINES

Bhopal became infamous for the tragic gas leak in the 1980s which caused the death of thousands of the town's inhabitants, but a completely different aspect to this city has emerged since - it has become a thriving centre for art.   A long line of important Indian artists have emerged from Bhopal, the most famous being M.F. Hosein and their exhibitions enliven the national art scene.

The latest artist from Bhopal to exhibit in Gujarat, is Yusuf and perhaps, not surprisingly, the environment and its pollution, is the focus of his art.  Using gauze fabric, the entire exhibition is dedicated to 'The River' and deals with its use and abuse.  The gauze is made up of loose fibers which are worked in such a way as to allow layers to overlay layers, suggesting the translucence and also the opaque qualities of a river.  Even the framing glass is printed with ruled lines, creating an initial layer.   The river is treated as a linear object, like a highway, bringing great benefit, but suffering the consequences of pollution, along its route.  

The environment is a favourite subject for artists in India, who have much to say about urbanisation and its adverse effects.  This exhibition is beautiful in its very restrained, almost monochromatic colour palette and severe geometric abstraction.

   

DIWALI.....FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS.....NEW YEAR, ETC.

One holiday follows the next over a 5 day festival period.  By the end of Thursday, before the weekend of celebration, all ATMs and cash machines, had run out of money.  There was still no money on Saturday !  But this didn't dim the air of celebration - tea candles in teracotta diyas, coloured lights, fireworks and big bangs, heralded in Diwali on Sunday and New Year on Monday.

RED BOTTLE BRUSH

Flowering at Diwali, the Red Bottlebrush looks like a burst of fire crackers going off !

ART DECO IN VADODARA

A leafy street in the upmarket suburb of Alkapuri in Baroda, is lined with late Art Deco (1935 - 1950) houses in various stages of decay.  

These palatial homes, set in shady gardens with palm trees, oleander and bougainvillea, are the remnants of a bygone age of pastel colours and decorative detail.  

Once an exclusive and quiet neighbourhood, land has become so valuable that many of these home owners are selling up and moving out to a new suburb on the outskirts of town, where they can recapture the  exclusivity which they once enjoyed in Alkapuri.  

The old homes are being pulled down and replaced by modern, featureless blocks of flats, where the average rental is over 80 000 rupees per month.

Some houses are no longer as they were in their prime and decorative features like 'lead-light' windows, are buckled and bowed, but despite this, they have an air of distinguished grace.

Leaded windows have a long history extending from medieval times, when stain glass windows decorated structures from Gothic Cathedrals to small Parish Churches, in varying degrees of complexity.  But increasingly the more simple 'lead-light' windows were used in domestic architecture as a decorative feature at the front of the house, to introduce an element of colour into the facade.  In the 20th century, artists like Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Tiffany, popularised stain glass as an art form and windows, door panels and stair wells, were often glazed in this way.  Known as 'came glasswork' the small pieces of coloured glass are held in place by lead cames, whose joints are soldered together to give the panel its rigidity and then supported by a metal armature.  Lead was popular because it was cheap, but also because it was soft and malleable.  Unfortunately, this very quality, causes the window to sag, over time and without restoration, the glass eventually falls out.  

In the past, every town would have had a thriving industry in lead-lighting, but now the craft has become increasingly rare - something an artist might do, as a specialised commission, for a price !

RANGOLI & MOSAIC - ENDURING GEOMETRY

Difficult to believe that rangoli designs to celebrate Diwali, are created out of coloured sand !  Apart from the central circle, designs are mostly free-hand, embodying the energy of the designer, as the sand slips through the fingers.

This one decorating the entrance to a large  shopping mall, looked more like an intricate pile carpet, with its patterns of lines and swirls - it reminded me of the mosaic pavements in medieval churches in Italy.

However, rangoli designs are not meant to last,  and at the end of the Diwali season, they will be swept away !  The mosaic pavement below, made out of small stone tesserae, in front of the altar at the church of S. Miniato in Florence, has been around for 600 years !  

                                                             
                                                       Mosaic Pavement - San Miniato, Florence, 13th century

                                                                                           
                                                                               

                                             

KAJU KATLI - DIWALI SWEETS

Kaju Katli, cut into bite size diamond shapes and covered in thinner-than-thin layers of pure silver foil, are the sweets always associated with Diwali.   Made of ground cashew nuts, sugar and ghee - they represent the ultimate indulgence and covering them with silver, adds to their allure !

SHRINES AND SHOPPING

A charming feature of towns in Italy, is the informal shrine dedicated to the Madonna and Child or  Patron Saint, on a street corner, sometimes at head height, low enough for a votive bunch of flowers, to be left by someone in passing.  In India this is taken a step further, every shop has a shrine with burning incense and the shop keeper has a daily ritual of blessing, before opening for business.

With security an ever present necessity, the bigger shops and malls, require a bag check and pat down, for everybody, on entry and on check out, your shopping bags are numbered and bags tied with plastic tags, to prevent shop lifting.  At the exit to the shop, your cash slip is stamped by the uniformed security guard, who checks the number of bags you are carrying.  Another uniformed guard will cut the plastic tag for you as you leave, if requested.

In the general melee of the exit to the large supermarket, I'd never noticed before that in this busy and unlikely place of coming and going, there was a little shrine on the wall.  My attention was drawn to it this time, because a woman stood perfectly still before it, in prayer, with her eyes closed, an aura of quietness surrounded her.  After a few moments, she picked up her shopping and went on her way !

OMG ! BOLLYWOOD COMES TO TOWN !

The crowds were ten rows deep in places, crammed onto traffic islands, standing on every available surface, people carrying others on their shoulders, people at skyline level, giving every tall building a fringe of heads, jammed onto balconies, hanging out of windows, the immense crowd, standing shoulder to shoulder, was intent on one thing.....Hrithik Roshan, the Bollywood star !

Hrithik Roshan had come to Vadodara and was in the main street of the town, R.C. Dutt Road, to open a flagship jewelry shop in Gujarat, for the Indian Billionaire Entrepreneur from Kerala, Joy Alukkas, listed in the 'Forbes List' as one of the wealthiest men in the world.   It's a Dubai based company, owing much of its success to expansion in the Middle East.   Joy Alukkas, based in Kochi, is not worried by the low value of the rupee or the fall in the price of gold - everything comes right in time !

The focus of the huge crowd was on the stage in front of the new Joyalukkas shop, where Hrithik addressed the crowd, looking like a suave, modern day 'Elvis Presley' - balloons, confetti, red carpets, the booms of the TV cameras and the compere shouting to the crowd and whipping up their responses - the air fairly sizzled. The energy and adoration of the crowd focussed on this Bollywood icon, was palpable, as they strained to catch a glimpse of him.  Even if they were too far back in the crowd for a view, they waved and cheered anyway, as the road, which had been closed to traffic, took on the appearance of a football stadium.

Hrithik, is the No 1 heartthrob of the Indian cinema screen, with a string of successful movies to his name.  He's one of the most beautiful Bollywood actors in the business, with soulful eyes, aquiline features and thick dark hair - multi-talented, he's famous for his dancing and singing too.  Apart from being the face of Joyalukkas Jewelry, he was in town to promote his new Sci-fi film, Krrish 3, produced by his film director father, where he plays the role of a 'spider-man' type, action hero with supernatural powers.

Timing is everything - opening a new jewelry shop and promoting a new movie, the weekend before Diwali, sounds like a match made in heaven !

DIWALI DE-LIGHTS !!!

PARTY GEAR IN THE SILLY SEASON !

ALL LIT UP

Dusshera, Eid Al-Adha, Diwali and then Christmas - every religion is in festive mode - it's the season for celebration !  Streets glow with lanterns and lights - boxes of fruit and nuts fill the shops and special sweets, cut into diamond shapes, covered in silver, fill decorative boxes.

DUSSHERA

One Festival follows another, at this time of year....first it was Ganesha, where we celebrated the removal of obstacles and the bringing of good fortune, then it was the Garba, with nine nights of dancing, to celebrate the divine energy, which we all share and the cycle of creation and dissolution.  This is followed by Dusshera, celebrating the triumph of good over evil.  It has its origins of course in Hindu Mythology and the story of Rama falling in love with Sita, who becomes his wife.  She is kidnapped by the Demon King, whom Rama eventually fights and defeats, to free Sita.

Early in the morning mist, women are already out on the road, sitting amongst heaps of marigold flowers, nimbly making garlands for sale.   These will decorate every vehicle with a prayer for good luck and good fortune, from bicycles to motor cars and everything in between......

The owner of the Fitness Studio carefully knelt before each of the exercise bikes, he applied 5 dots of red 'tika' paste on the front of each one, with a little bit of rice and a marigold, dipped in the red paste.  Each piece of gym equipment was given the same benediction.  The intensity of his prayer could be felt - the gym was a new business venture by a group of young trainers.  It had opened at the beginning of the year, but within a week of its inauguration, it had been wiped out by fire and burnt to the ground and the young syndicate had had to bite the bullet and begin all over again !

MADE IN INDIA

The Indian Ring-Necked Parakeet, found all over the Sub-Continent from Southern India, to the foothills of the Himalayas, has adapted so well to varying climatic situations, that it is becoming an Indian export and global inhabitant !  Found in South Africa too, it can also be seen round and about in London, where the original birds escaped from captivity and have since set up a colony and in Brussels, where it was introduced deliberately, to add some colour to the city !  As with all things Indian, it's an exotic looking bird with emerald green tail feathers.  It's a mimic, copying human speech and even human emotions !  Considered an omen of good karma, by Hindus, it is sometimes featured in tribal embroidery,  as an auspicious symbol.

Here it sits on top of the Indian 'Mast Tree'.  This strange tree, quite unlike anything else, grows vertically upwards, like a ship's mast and appears to have no branches.  Often cultivated as a screen, in front of a house for privacy, it also helps to cut out noise !

MOO

ENDANGERED SPECIES.....

It seems that the rhinoceros is under threat not only in Africa, but right here in Gujarat !  This sculpture, the first of its kind in India, by Gujarati artist Narottam Luhar, has been removed from its dominant position in the centre of a major traffic circle and dumped at the side of the road, where its future is uncertain - a notice announces that the site is under reconstruction !  With a backdrop of billboards and bikes, the rhino looks forlorn, to say the least.

It's constructed out of scrap metal and weighs around 3 tons.  Commissioned by the Founder of an Iron and Engineering Company in the 1970s, it took its place in a significant spot in the town, adding to the variety of sculptures, providing a focal point for road users.  The different shapes of metal plate have been soldered together to create the essential form of the rhinoceros, beautifully expressing its bulk, weight and stocky power.  Together with the 'Banyan Tree' circle on the outskirts of Fatehgunj and the 'Bird Circle' near Alkapuri, these imaginative and secular roundabouts, create a delightful contrast.  The newer roundabouts in town, are more formal and religious in character.

Interestingly, roundabouts help to define a city.  Support for local artists, here in Vadodara, is very worthwhile and the rhinoceros definitely deserves to go back to its original habitat, at the crossroads !

ROOM WITH AN 'EXISTENTIAL' VIEW

It could be the backdrop for one of De Chirico's early metaphysical paintings - the loneliness and   emptiness of an endless row of classical structures....... stretching into the distance, devoid of humanity !

Hard to imagine that these are, in fact, newly erected apartments in a small town in India !

ESSENTIAL JEWELRY TO WEAR WITH A GARBA DRESS

GARBA GEAR IN GUJARAT

THE GARBA SEASON BEGINS

Garba dancing requires practice and co-ordination and children start learning the dance at an early age.  The garba begins slowly with a few people leading, other 'players' join in behind and gradually a circle is formed, with steps going forward and then turning back on themselves, the movement allowing the circular garba skirt to radiate outwards, in a shower of sparkles.  It's a religious dance celebrating 'shakti' or Divine Energy, common to everyone.  The circularity of the skirt and the dance itself, symbolise the cyclical rhythm of time from birth, through life, death and re-birth, ever subject to change.  Only the Goddess, Dirga, at the centre, is constant and unchanging.

It reminded me of the nature of Rose Windows in 13th century Gothic Cathedrals, in Europe.  The Wheel Windows, early predecessors of the Rose, would show struggling humanity, being dragged around the outside rim of the wheel, subject to time, change and decay, whilst Christ at the centre of the wheel, represented a still and constant point, outside of time,  omnipotent, omnipresent and infinite.

The cycle of life, 'from the good to the good', is also the underlying philosophy of much of Neo Platonist thought, eloquently expressed in the work of the Renaissance artist, Sandro Botticelli (1445 - 1510), especially in his painting, 'Primavera' (c1480), which also features the rhythm of a dance.

THE RED AND WHITE HOUSE

Directions to this house would be very easy indeed !   Using bold colours to outline architectural elements, is a feature of Indian architecture - always colourful, it doesn't seem to follow any particular logic.  Even formal elements, like arches and coloumns, play a decorative, rather than functional role, and are sometimes randomly placed at skyline level.

Interestingly, in the West, colour does not play an active role in architecture.  From Greek times, the formal properties of harmony and balance were celebrated.  The Romans added might and mass and Vetruvian principles of proportion, based on mathematical logic.  Applied sculptural decoration enlivened pediments and friezes with narrative stories.

Brunelleschi, the famous Renaissance Architect, interestingly introduced colour into his buildings by using the simple contrast of grey pietra serena (a local sandstone) and white stucco, to emphasize the rational logic of his mathematical proportions, in a very controlled way.  Applied decoration in the form of blue and white glazed terracotta, was the only colour permitted by him, to be introduced into his rational structures.

And even with the architectural revolution of the 19th century, when new building materials like reinforced concrete and glass became available, the focus of architecture was on building higher and higher, economics, being a motivating factor.  The early 20th c movements of Art Deco and Art Nouveau, were a brief decorative interlude, before Gropius and Le Corbusier, brought us back to our senses and reminded us that form should express function and the frivolity of decoration was eschewed in favour of truth to the materials themselves.

The sheer playfulness of The Red and White House (1952), with its pale mauve shutters, is a glorious example of indulgence !

6.15 P.M.

Bumping along in a rickshaw, down the very long Productivity Road, at 6.15 p.m., is a chance to view things from this vantage point of relative comfort - the open sides of the rickshaw catch the passing breeze and provide an unimpeded view of street life at this magical hour.  The sun has almost set. a blazing ball of orange and a few scattered monsoon clouds are tinged with pink.  The air has cooled and the light is betwixt and between.  Productivity Road is parallel to a major trunk road and by contrast has an informality - a special atmosphere.   The energy has gone out of the day, people stand and chat and yet the road still bustles, in a laid back, cheerful, 'end of the day', sort of way.  Shops are beginning to light up, their goods spilling out onto uneven pavements.  It's the Garba season and many ad hoc stalls have been set up displaying garba dresses, with their wide, colourful skirts and shiny borders, glittering in the lamp light.  Bodices are laid out, embroidered and embellished with mirrors.  Jewelry and all the paraphernalia associated with the season is displayed.  Bright festive lights decorate some shop fronts.   Dogs wander in and out - one defecates, its back flexed into an exaggerated curve. Two peasant girls in shabby clothes, holding bunches of brightly coloured balloons aloft, make their way homeward.

BIRD BRAIN ?

With increasing urbanisation and the migration of people from the countryside to towns, building construction is an endless process in India.  Exclusive neighbourhoods are fast being transformed, as high-rise blocks of flats are going up and green areas are disappearing to make way for the tide of an increasingly dense population.

Monkeys, frequently seen in Alkapuri, have disappeared altogether, moving to the outskirts of the town.  The pigeon population, however, has adapted to urbanisation in the most remarkable way.  Not only do they use air conditioning units and balcony railings, as perches, in preference to anything botanical, but astonishingly, they have taken a cue from the building methods round and about and now construct their own reinforced nests !  Instead of twigs, these nests are carefully made out of thin pieces of malleable wire, which they bend round any existing vertical cable, between apartments, to provide a nest, which they line with a few sticks, for the sake of comfort !

Aesthetics is of no importance in avian urbanisation - these wire nests look a mess, but since wire conducts heat, presumably the incubation period for pigeon eggs is quicker ? !

DELUGE IN GUJARAT

MONSOON SKY - GUJARAT

JASMINE AND ROSES - GARLANDS FOR A GOD

TOMATO KETCHUP

When the British were in India, last century, they introduced tea and cricket to the Sub Continent.  A mandatory tea break was imposed on the factory workers' day and so the love of tea drinking in India was born and encouraged.  However, with their usual ingenuity, the Indians spiced up the tea with ginger and cardamom, producing their own version of chai, now brewed and drunk on every street corner, no matter what the time of day !

Similarly with cricket....those traditional, tranquil 5 day matches, have been spiced up for the IPL, with cheer leaders and razzamatazz and all the 'Bollywood' style 'beautiful people' and gossip, to create crowd pleasing entertainment.

But a seemingly forgotten influence of the British, has found its way onto every supermarket shelf in the country and that is.... 'tomato sauce'!  This is the most well stocked section of any grocery shop ! Rows and rows of bottles and varying types of packs of tomato sauce, are lined up with military precision with far more varieties on offer, than you'd find anywhere else in the world !   Running your eye over the display, starting with the Rolls Royce of tomato sauces, 'Heinz Tomato Ketchup', there's:  Tomato Ketchup without onion or garlic (religious preference), 'Fresh Tomato Ketchup', 'Tomato Sauce Regular', 'Tomato Sauce with Chili', 'Sweet Chili Tomato Sauce', 'Hot Tomato Sauce', 'Spicy Tomato Sauce'.  Then there's a choice of consistency - 'Runny', 'Squeezy' 'Thick' and....even 'Tomato Sauce for Pizza'  !!

GANESHA CHATURTHI - 9TH SEPTEMBER

I had quite forgotten - it was that time of year again.  The road was completely blocked off and the blaring music alerted us to the procession in front.  The traffic was re-routed to one lane.  A huge truck was bearing the statue of Lord Ganesha to his temporary home - a large stage, colourfully decorated with garlands and lights.  The littlest children sat on the back of the very same truck, dressed in their best clothes, their eyes bright with anticipation and excitement, preceded further up, by a group of gyrating, laughing and shrieking youths.

It was the 4th day of the waxing moon - Lord Ganesha's Birthday (he's the son of Shiva and Pavarti) and a favourite God, much loved by all.  Local societies all over town have paid for the mandapas, where the God will be housed for the next 10 - 12 days.  Hindus believe in the actual presence of the God himself, during this special time and since he is the remover of obstacles and bringer of prosperity, what's not to celebrate ?  Societies are very competitive, each vying for the biggest statue and the best shrine.  Even shops and hotels have a private space for a smaller statue of Ganesha, set on a plinth in an alcove, glowing with light, heat and colour, as a focal point,  in a strategic place,  inviting good fortune and good luck.

The statues are made of plaster of paris or plastic and brightly painted with artificial colours.  In the past they were made of mud and at the end of the festival they would be doused in the local pond, returning to where they came from, symbolising creation and dissolution.  But of course nowadays, the material used is insoluble and toxic, polluting local water supplies !  But the celebrations go on unabashed and will be followed by one festival after another, until the summer.

TRANSFORMATION - THE CHANGING FACE OF BARODA

THEN..........

AND... NOW -  ITS REPLACEMENT (ONE YEAR LATER).........!

TAKING IT TO THE NEXT LEVEL

MONDRIAN INDIANUS !

The modern architectural movements of the early 20th century, found a ready market worldwide and particularly in India where Art Deco and De Stijl flourished.  Not so much the use of primary colours, but rather shades and tints to accentuate architectural features.  Due to the monsoon climate and enduring year round heat, small windows and balconies are set in cubic enclosures, painted in a cooler colour, to give the effect of shade, even if not actual !  Flat roofs are prevalent, providing space for water tanks and in the dry, cooler, winter months, a popular place to sleep.

Pilotis, introduced by Le Corbusier in the 1930s in France, have become de rigueur in all modern building in India, providing garaging space for multi story apartment blocks, as India becomes increasingly urbanised and a shady place for cows to stand during the heat of summer !

And as urban planning allows for more and more of these hastily erected apartment blocks to flourish, generally featureless in their cubic proportions, the old independent bungalows of the 'Art Deco' and 'De Stijl' generation, add a 'masala mix', which certainly adds interest and 'colour' to the neighbourhood  !

HORTUS CONCLUSUS

Alkapuri, the upmarket suburb, was fast changing into a jungle of newly erected high-rise apartment blocks, some separated by just a few meters and this is what made the 'walled garden' so special.  The space hadn't been sold to 'developers' - it's a wild place of palms and other trees and shrubs, all jumbled closely together and in the early morning, it becomes an enchanted space.  A green lung exuding oxygen.  Bird life seems concentrated within its borders, a chorus of bird song, a variety of sounds, as feathers are fluffed out in busy grooming.  Green parakeets swoop urgently from one tree to another and back again, with a flash of their emerald wings and even butterflies, quite close by, pale in the morning light, settle for a moment and then move on.   And just over the far wall, in the distance, through the dense foliage, to the street beyond, a woman in an orange sari, quietly bends....her left arm gracefully behind her back, as she sweeps up the fallen leaves with her charu.  

THE ENTREPRENEUR !

Basier drew up with a flourish, his new green and yellow rickshaw throbbing with life, a large smile on his face.  Something of a change from the SUV with tinted windows which he used to drive !  We had a deal - he would be my chauffeur, tuk tuk, driver in the afternoons.  As we bowled along, I asked him how he enjoyed driving a rickshaw.  "It's a good business", he said "I make 500 rupees a day and I get to go home at 6 p.m. - no overtime and I'm my own boss !"  He paid 50 000 rupees for the vehicle, so it'll pay for itself in about 4 months !

....IN THE NEWS AGAIN !

The news was full of another gang rape, this time in Mumbai...so the litany goes on.  It reminded me of the strange tale I heard some time ago sitting having coffee with someone I had just met.  A hotel cleaner had followed her into her room and attempted to rape her, but she managed to throw him off and highly upset, went straight downstairs to report the incident to the hotel manager and desk staff.  This was received with smirks and derision.  Incensed at their indifference, she decided to take her complaint to the police.  They charged and arrested the man, who was sentenced to a beating, to which the girl was invited.  After they had delivered some strokes with a cane, they asked her if she felt justice had been done.....the next bit of the story was utterly astonishing....she said that she didn't think he'd been beaten enough, at which they invited her to have a go !  She accepted the challenge and finished off the beating herself !  Of course, what was most wounding to the man, was not the beating itself, but the fact that he'd been beaten by a woman !

The strange situation of independent women in India, is a sign of the times and the globalisation of cultural traditions - old habits die hard and women seen out of the context of the family, are a sticking point, for they are regarded not as people but as objects, in a patriarchal society.  The emancipated woman challenges tradition and economic structure.

Walking home one evening at about 10 o'clock after having had dinner with a friend, a matter of a 10 minute distance, a young man entered the road down which I was walking, on a motor bike - the headlight blinded me and as he approached, he slowed down and then lent out and with all his force, punched me in the chest, knocking me off balance.  He quickly sped off, stopping half-way down the road, to look back to see my reaction !

Most women riding on scooters cover themselves up with a scarf, so that only their eyes are revealed - this is ostensibly to protect their skin from the sun, but I think it also gives them a modicum of protection from insolent staring and harassment !  It's only through education at grass root level, that respect can be nurtured and ridicule eliminated.

EVERY SQUARE INCH

Decades ago this was a very upmarket part of town.  Large properties with sprawling gardens and spacious art deco houses, lined the streets, creating an air of casual grace.  Shopping malls were unheard of and the streets were a lot quieter.  But with the increasing value of land, property owners have been unable to resist the temptation to sell off their land to developers, who are quickly putting up one apartment block after another, creating a concrete jungle - a slum, where green spaces are a thing of the past.

The loss of this habitat must be catastrophic for bird life, not to mention the general quality of life all round.  In order to regain their 'paradise lost', the wealthy have moved out and are building their new villas on the edge of town, where they can again, see nature and breathe clean air and exclusivity.  And so the town is creeping forward and urbanisation is spreading.  A few original properties still exist, but it's only a matter of time before they, too, succumb !