TWO WHEELERS, THREE WHEELERS

I've decided that motor bikes are definitely the best way to get around.  The exhilaration of traveling on the back  and hanging onto the seat bar is quite unbeatable.  At first I was terrified by the idea of letting go my grip and falling off, or the driver misjudging the width of his bike and being squashed, but having traveled a few times now, I'm actually beginning to lean into the curve, lifting one hand free and loving the rush of wind through my hair - nobody here wears crash helmets.  In Italy, crash helmets became quite a fashion item and young Italians, wouldn't bother to remove the headgear when they dismounted, but would simply push it to the back of the head.   Of course, wearing jeans, I'm sitting astride the bike, unlike the Indian women in their saris, who sit side saddle.  You even see mother, father and kids riding along, one child in front, then father at the handlebars, behind him another child, sometimes two and then mother bringing up the rear - 5 on one bike !

The auto rickshaw is a more sedate option - again the air-conditioning is great, as they have a roof but no sides, but being three wheelers, if the front wheel misses the rut in the road, the two back wheels will certainly find it and on one journey, the bumps were so violent, that I returned home with a headache and suspected whiplash damage to my neck !   As for stuffing people into a rickshaw, which will comfortably seat two,  I have, on occasion, counted as many as twelve passengers !